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July 21 journal entry, five days after arriving in Pune, India
Experiencing ‘Traditional India’
In celebration of guru poornima (full moon), I wrote in devnagri “happy
guru poornima” for Neeti, my Marathi teacher, on the board, attracting
attention from ACM staff as to our progress in the alphabet. After class
a violinist gave us a tutorial on Indian classical violin. The violin
could not be distinguished from a Western violin, the difference was the
way she held it (with the scroll resting on her ankle sitting in a cross-legged
position), and the sounds and linkages she made. She didn’t follow
a piece of music, it was all based around the movement of the tabla and
the secondary violinist. They had all played together for long enough
that they knew where to go in the movement of the chords and the climax
of the piece. Its exciting to think that no two performances can really
be exactly the same. It makes me wonder what its exactly about, since
Western music is all in how an orchestra technically executes and emotionally
expresses a composed piece. Yet in Indian classical music, it’s
about feeling the waves of motion in the music. It almost seems reactionary
to me.
After a huge lunch, a trip to the cyber café, and a session on
mutual expectations, 7 of us walked up Fergusson Hill. The view reminded
me how big and crowded Pune is. Its so green but so big and busy. There
is so much trash and pollution, yet it looks like a tornado plopped Pune
in the middle of a jungle.
Ben and I booked it back from the hill to the Iyangar Yoga institute to
celebrate guru poornima. Celebrate is a very loose term, since all we
did was sit on our haunches for 3 hours in a crowded room, listening to
the guru’s son first speak for 2 hours, and then Iyengar himself
spoke for 45 minutes. I was struck by some of the analogies—like
that of the mother becoming a mother through the birth of her child, thus
they make one another. I enjoyed the strong message that we must rely
on ourselves to become good students before we can expect anything from
others.
In my preparation for coming here, I decided that I did not want the ‘traditional
Indian experience’ as it is so predictable. I did not want that
experience that Westerners generally attach to India, as a mystical oasis.
I neglected the history and centered on the present, but I forgot that
history informs the present. Tradition is still important in Indian culture.
Just as Classical music holds an important place in Western culture, Degas
and Edgar Allen Poe are still admired…Tukaram and yoga are important
in forming Indian identity.
July 25 journal entry
A trip to the cultural theme park Sanskruti
We entered and sat under tents at Sanskruti as we munched on snacks,
then went around the booths that offered face drawings, puppets, pottery,
palm reading, henna (which I finally succumbed to since everyone else
was doing it) and other odd attractions that supposedly come from Rajasthan.
I definitely felt like I was on a bizarre kitchy exploit. But I decided
not to act too cool, and I just went with it.
When I looked around to see who else was in this cultural theme park,
I realized that Indians composed the remainder of the crowd apart from
the ACM program. It seems like going to kitchy spectacles like that are
just a part of the culture. Its just something I have to act appreciative
of.
Post India reflection:
I think when I went to India I did not want to see the touristy ‘mystical’
or ‘exotic’ side. Yet my host family did not consider those
things constructed for tourists, rather as modes of learning about their
historical culture. Most of my Maharashtrian friends envied my trip to
Rajasthan and the Taj Mahal, trips that they had never made because ‘its
just right there, I can go anytime, so I never go.’ Just before
I returned to the States, a father whose family I became close with reminded
me that I must return so I could see the entire nation, I had missed the
Southern states whose “culture is so different.” Generally
people were excited to hear that I took tabla (traditional Indian drum)
lessons, and yoga lessons. The more activities I did that struck an ‘Orientalist’
chord with me raised my Maharashtrian friends’ respect of me since
I demonstrated a will to learn about their culture.
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