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paper from Global Interdependence, Fall 2004
When I marched through the souvenir markets in Dakar last year, I was
perfectly aware of the money signs flashing in vendors’ eyes as
this young toubab (foreigner) approached their stands of trinkets. I made
a minimum of these trips because of the energy they required in discussing
prices for pieces of “African” art that really had no significance
for Senegal in particular. The Senegalese houses where I lived and visited
rarely displayed any of the wood carvings, or masks that draw tourists.
The value in buying these trinkets, however, lay less in the object and
more in the interaction entailed in discussing the price. I could barely
communicate coherent thoughts in the most widespread native language of
Senegal, Wolof; but I excelled, relatively, in marketplace banter. “Dafaa
jafaa lool-waay! Wanni-ko!” in Wolof loses something when translated
to English “That’s too much! Reduce!” I began brushing
up on Wolof vocabulary in an attempt to lower prices from the vendor,
but engaging in joking arguments ended up elevating my relationship with
the vendors. More than benefiting the economy, economic transactions through
tourism becomes the bridge between tourists and native people by building
social capital.
Its nice to imagine our money funding social reform, but it often returns
straight back into the tourist industry. Kincaid draws attention to the
name of the airport as the first impression that might strike a tourist
in Antigua, “you might be the sort of tourist who would wonder why
a Prime Minister would want an airport named after him-why not a school?”
(3). As soon as the tourist saw the library, in disrepair since 1974,
they might understand that education falls low in the list of priorities
of the government. Instead the hotel training school is celebrated, “a
school that teaches Antiguans how to be good servants, how to be a good
nobody, which is what a servant is,” (Kincaid 55). The tourist economy
strengthens poverty and reliance on charity since educating a new generation
of leaders falls to the wayside of building a stronger tourist industry.
Maintaining the cycle of poverty and charity upholds the alienation Americans
feel in our fear of falling from the plateau of economic success in the
world. In her article discussing class divisions through the metaphor
of a teenager’s, Wendi, affinity to sports utility vehicles, Rachel
Heiman suggests that “the farther one is from the ground, the more
anxious and dizzying the view from above” (25). After Wendi’s
involvement in a number of car accidents in her SUV, she feared that “I’m
driving this little car and I get into an accident with a truck, I’ll
die” (Heiman, 25). Her need for a SUV represents American’s
fears in losing our position on top of the world economy, for fear of
being smothered by fresh upstarts. Since supporting the tourist industry
cannot in itself create a strong economy, the economic contribution of
tourism only proves to underline our economic success. The tourist’s
role in the foreign economy contributes to the alienation of America on
top of the world economy, afraid of true success in other nations that
might challenge our own one day.
As agents for development, the tourist gains an element of nobility. Therein
lays the superiority complex that threatens development from effectively
maneuvering its resources to achieve its goals of raising the standard
of life in a nation. Development agencies generally only want the best
for the people, but they work towards what they, from the outside, consider
the best. According to Escobar, “development reproduces endlessly
the separation between reformers and those to be reformed by keeping alive
the premise of the third world as different and inferior, as having a
limited humanity in relation to the accomplishments of Europeans,”
(386). By thinking of tourism as economic charity, tourists reproduce
their conception of high development in the Global North and underdevelopment,
or backwardness in the tourist destination.
When tourists leave their country, they imagine entering an exotic culture
deeply embedded in tradition. Tourists watch in awe “…the
way they squat down over a hole they have made in the ground, the hole
itself is something to marvel at,” (Kincaid, 17). Even though the
tourist might not overtly perceive their superiority over the native people
of their vacation spot, Jamaica Kincaid notes this “ugly but joyful
thought will swell inside you [as an ugly tourist]-their ancestors were
not clever in the way yours were, for then would it not be you who would
be in harmony with nature and backwards in that charming way?” (17).
Maintaining the stereotype of cultural backwardness that Americans often
hold of the Global South increases the alienation we feel as superior
beings.
The evolving culture that a tourist most likely finds (if they leave Club
Med) might disappoint them, or invoke feelings of irritation with the
West. My first few days in Korea involved disgust with corporate America
for its world takeover. Remnants of core countries are present all over
the periphery. In Uganda, as in many nations of the Global South, used
clothes from American charities have found a large market. One young driver
finds this influx disconcerting, “Ugandan culture will be dead in
10 years, because we are all looking to Western things” (Packer,
3). Like this man, tourists fear the encroachment of the West on Global
South cultures when they first see the prevalence of Western-style clothes
replacing a unified traditional dress code.
Yet where tourists see cultural depletion, they find an integration of
traditions and cultures that play off of one another in an evolutionary
process. Kincaid asks “what is culture anyway? In some places it’s
the way they play drums; in other places it’s the way you behave
in public…is it not so that people make them up as they go along,
make them up as you need them?” (49). The nature of culture requires
change as people’s needs evolve. Ugandan used clothing markets maintain
the oral traditions rich in joking banter as the shopper and vendor argue
over prices: the vendor defending the high price because “this coat
is as thick as fish soup” to which the perspective buyer claims
“you are killing me!” (Packer, 4). More than an American imposition,
“Western” and “traditional” cultures both contribute
in melding a new cultural identity.
Tourists that recognize this relationship between their nations and the
tourist destination emerge from their experience bound to the people of
this “small place” as Kincaid describes Antigua. The tourist
loses the stereotype of suffering natives in need of charity when they
attach faces and conversations to the distorted image of lives trampled
on by America and Europe. The tourist begins to see the native people
as active participants in Globalization, instead of victims of it. They
become connected in humanity as the tourist becomes aware of their relationship
to the native people, “once you throw off your master’s yoke,
you are no longer human rubbish, you are just a human being…once
they are no longer noble and exalted, they are just human beings”
(Kincaid, 81).
Creating this common bond through tourism, the tourist and the native
find social capital that “can improve our lives by making people
aware of how our fates are linked while building social networks that
help people fulfill individual goals” (Robbins 375). Smashing perceptions
of victimization increases the tourist’s emotional obligation to
the inequality and poverty that they did witness on their vacation. Even
when tourists attempt to shield themselves from anything dirty or distressing,
Kincaid paints a scene of the inevitable relationship, “you must
not wonder what happened to the contents of your lavatory when you flushed
it…Oh, it might all end up in the water you are thinking of taking
a swim in” (14). As much as the tourist might try to escape the
harsh realities of the world surrounding them, one that our connected
history of Colonialism bore, the footprints of inequality remain present
for the tourist to account for.
Tourism can endow the foreigner and native with a sense of global community
that breeds interconnectivity in their actions. Recognizing our impact
in the lives of Senegalese or Antiguans continues when we return home
as we consider their impact in America. It is impossible to define the
extent of our interaction with the rest of the world. Tourism acts as
one conversation in our dialogue with the international community as we
search for the meaning of global interdependence.
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