Dear Fans of Term in Asia 2008,
We are back safely and happily from our trip around Thailand. The week flew by as we found joy in being together again after being in family stays. Once you get used to seeing each other all day everyday, the few hours each day in classes has been noticeably different. We were joined on our trip by four of our very favorite Thai Ajarns, and our four Thai Buddies. The Ajarns had all traveled with the St. Olaf group before, and it seems to be an annual highlight for them. The Thai Buddies are four students who applied to help host us during our stay at Chiang Mai University. They deserve much of the credit for making Thailand such a great experience! It was incredibly fun to travel with them, and many of the places we visited were just as new to them as they were to our group, which added to the excitement.
Our first night was spent in Sukhothai, the original capital of Siam. Arriving in the late afternoon was a perfect time of day to explore the old city. Walking through what is now a thin forest, speckled with stone walls and ruins, we began to imagine what the old temples and buildings must have looked like. The lighting was perfect for walking slowly and enjoying the dusk, and it was finally clear then that we were far away from busy Chiang Mai. The next morning we took a bike tour and had time to explore a few different temples on our own. There we saw the largest stretch of temples yet, full of towers, stupas, and many sitting, standing and reclining Buddha statues of all sizes. Everything was constructed of beautiful stone.
Our next stop was Phitsanulok where we went to a museum on Central Thai life. It included many old tools that were and some that are still used in the rice harvest, as well as antique cookware, musical instruments, textiles and toys for children. The city reminded us more of China, as it felt much less "touristy", and more structured around the daily lives of the local people. That night was the eve of the King's birthday, the time for his annual address to the nation. It is the one time of year the king publicly addresses his people, and his words are treasured and taken very seriously by all. In the face of the recent political crisis, many expected the King's to provide guidance for his divided people. However as we crowded around the t.v. waiting for him to appear, we were surprised to learn that his son and daughter were there to make a brief announcement that the king was ill, and unable to speak. Without any more information, or plans for another speech upon his recovery, the event was over. We were surprised, but it was clear that our Thai friends were shocked. The king has not spoken only once before, when the queen gave a speech in his stead. Many have talked about the royal families silence about the recent protests as a statement about the actions of the two parties. Though what kind of statement exactly, we aren't sure. The one thing we are sure of is the belief of many Thai people, that the only one who could truly unite the people, is the King.
Before leaving in the morning, we had the chance to visit the Golden Temple. Most practicing Buddhists believe they should make the trip here once in their lives, so it was full of Thai people making their visit! We were about the only farangs (the Thai word for foreigner) in there. Which may have had more to do with the lack of tourists all over the country since the political crisis; everywhere we went we were about the only foreigners. The temple was filled with camera-crazy people, who along with paying respects to the Buddha image, were busy getting their fortunes read, and offering flowers and candles. It was an interesting insight into the domestic tourism side of Buddhism in Thailand.
Next we traveled to Ayuthaya and on the way we visited what we were told was the "most beautiful temple in the world". Despite a touch of initial scepticism we found that it truly was beautiful. We spent the afternoon walking around the grounds, climbing up a high tower, before we realized exactly how tall it really was, and that we would have to climb back down again. It was a little bit perilous, or we liked to think so. That evening was the King's actual birthday and the city of Ayuthaya went all out. Stepping out of our hotel to find dinner, we were met by thousands of people, loud music, fireworks, all kinds of dancing, Thai boxing and tons of food as far as the eye could see. We spent the evening meandering through the crowds, and trying to take everything in. Even though the king wasn't celebrating, his people didn't hold back, and the party could be heard early into the morning as we tried to sleep.
After three days filled with constant moving, we had a little break at the beach in Cha-am. A little town on the Northwest corner of the Gulf of Thailand, the beach wasn't too busy or loud, and the best part was there was nothing planned. All of us took time for reading, journaling, swimming, running and walking by the beach and of course napping in the sun. All of those daytime activities left energy for some rousing karaoke at night. The quiet time, and the beautiful water were good for us, though after two days we were ready to head back north. After a ten hour drive, we stopped in Lampang, near Chiang Mai and said good bye to two Ajarns and two buddies who returned to Chiang Mai early due to midterms.
Early the next morning we headed out again and traveled out of Chiang Mai province, north through the mountains to Chiang Rai at the northernmost tip. The home of the golden triangle, named for the opium trade that existed where the borders of Thailand, Laos and Burma all meet, had a different climate and landscape. We toured an Opium Museum that explained the process the hill tribes used to grow, cultivate, harvest and extract opium from the poppy flowers. The museum also went into detail about the politics and the history of conflict the opium trade has and continues to cause in this area of the world. After the museum we found ourselves floating down the the Mekong River in a small boat. We stopped off on the Laotian shore for a very short trip across the border. While we truly know nothing of what life is like there, it was striking to us how not unlike Thailand it seemed, if it weren't for the more visible poverty and greater need we could see from the market we walked through.
The next day we visited the customs checkpoint at the Burmese border. Without making the crossing ourselves, we saw the bridge that many Thai and Burmese cross everyday on their way to work or to shop. It was interesting to see the contrast of people leaving the Thai side, and the many Burmese coming to work. After learning so much about Burma, seeing it meant much more than it would have if we had no idea what was happening within it's borders. To imagine where the roads we saw led to, and where those people's lives were going was powerful for many of us. On the way home we stopped at a final temple in the mountains, and got wonderfully lost on the "short cut" back to the bottom.
It is good to be home now, and back to the familiar we have gotten so used to. Faced with our last week of classes, and plenty of final assignments to keep us busy, we are all working on time to say goodbye to the place we've grown to know and to love, as we have no idea if or when we'll be back. Christmas is coming and we're doing all we can to make it seem like Christmas could really be around the corner in a land of sunshine, warm weather and tropical fruit trees everywhere instead of pine trees. There is no snow, but there is the occasional startling tacky Christmas decoration. It's funny seeing what customs Thailand has picked up, especially since virtually no Thais celebrate Christmas. We're busy making plans for our own little celebration, and look forward to having a very merry Thai Christmas this year. We will be thinking of you all at home, and will be missing you and sending thoughts of health, joy and peace your way!
We are thinking especially of peace for Thailand right now. Yesterday the Parliament elected a new Prime Minister. He is part of the opposition party, and there is much hope that he will satisfy and unite the deeply divided people. There is also plenty of skepticism however, and the pro-government party has already voiced their opposition. We are hopeful this new leadership will help calm things down, and Thailand can finally move forward.
Happy Holidays! Much Love and Much Peace,
Term in Asia, 2008