Dear St. Olaf Community,
As-salam alaykum!
As we approach our last weeks in Egypt, we are amazed at how quickly the time here has gone. Unlike our brief stays in Paris and Geneva, our time in Cairo has allowed us to grow more comfortable in and familiar with the culture, people, and setting that surrounds us. Though the city was very overwhelming at first, we have found more confidence in navigating and appreciating Cairo's unique urban culture. The initially shocking experiences of darting cars and adjusting our eating habits to fit Ramadan are now a part of our daily habits. In addition to our time in class and around Cairo, we have been fortunate to go on excursions which have revealed the many facets of life in and around this fascinating city, both today and in ancient times.
We have been struck by the economic disparity that seems to characterize contemporary Egypt. One of our AUC professors, Dr. John Swanson, led us on a bus tour on our first day which exposed the paradox of extreme poverty and growing suburban development surrounding Cairo. We began the outing driving through the "City of the Dead" where nearly one million Egyptians live around the tombs dedicated to their families. Because of the high cost of living, rising unemployment rates, and low incomes, these tombs are many peoples' only option for a "home." It was a shocking contrast to end the tour in the wealthy, developing suburbs filled with gated communities and luxury spas. The contrast between these two environments was merely an introduction to the economic disparity of modern Egypt.
The most pertinent example of this disparity was our group visit to Egypt's Smart Village. Smart Villages Company was established in 2001 with the initiative of promoting "the future construction and development of a branded chain of technology and business parks on the local and regional level." Essentially, Smart Village is an upscale campus for multinational corporations to set up offices and employ local Egyptians. At the conclusion of an introductory presentation, an interesting question and answer session began. In typical Ole fashion, a number of students brought up concerns about the environmental impacts of the campus and the use of the land, while others praised it for the economic benefits. Despite conflicting views within our group, we could all agree that Smart Village was a perfect example of our field supervisors' course on the interplay of tradition and globalization. For the first time since our arrival, we almost felt at home amidst the green landscape, the impressive technology, and the glass and steel buildings that housed familiar companies such as Microsoft and Hewlett Packard. This Western influence within Egypt has been a common topic of conversation among Global students these past weeks.
During our time in Cairo, we have been studying Egyptian history at the American University in Cairo. Ranging from the Pharonic periods to present day, the course has offered us a wide array of perspectives through specialized lectures given by different professors. Our Ancient Egyptian professor, Dr. Randa Baligh, was especially helpful in providing a valuable introduction to the Egyptian landmarks and monuments we would visit in Giza, Saqqara, Luxor, and Aswan.
When we finally saw the quintessential Egyptian tourist sites, we were not only in awe of their splendor and enormous size (even the incredible new Science Center can't begin to compare!), but also were able to appreciate their historical significance based on all we had learned. Though we have all seen countless pictures of the pyramids, nothing can compare with the feelings we had climbing through the Great Pyramid of Giza, lying in a granite pharaoh's sarcophagus inside, or riding camels between the enormous stone blocks. We experienced similar sentiments the next day as we toured Memphis, the capital of ancient Egypt and Saqqara, the most important graveyard of the Pharonic period. As we walked through museums and tombs, our knowledgeable tour guide interpreted hieroglyphs and shared historical insight on the ancient artifacts and monuments we were seeing.
While exploring the temples, we were especially struck by the theme of syncretism throughout Egyptian history. Contrary to our initial assumptions, temples were more than just places for worship; they were also economic and educational hubs for the Ancient Egyptians. The temples' importance continued throughout history and was unchallenged even as cultural and religious values changed. For example, massive temples to honor Ancient Egyptian gods and pharaohs were modified throughout history by Coptic Christians and Muslims to be used as churches and mosques. Rather than being at odds with conflicting beliefs, these later religions recognized the historical value of the temples and adapted these spaces to fit their practices instead of destroying them. To this day, we see an appreciation for history that Egyptians continue to build on in modern culture.
We are currently in southern Egypt, in the city of Luxor. The royal residence of the New Kingdom, Luxor now contains the largest concentration of archaeological antiquities in the world. After a twelve hour overnight train ride, we are grateful for a change of pace and scenery, and the chance to see another part of this diverse country. Although the weather is hot (over 120 degrees and sunny!) we have already toured the incredible Karnak Temple and the accompanying open air museum. Our remaining days in Luxor have many thrilling visits in store, including to the Valley of the Kings, the Luxor Museum, and various temples. On Friday we will be on the move again, heading to Aswan to see the famous High Dam, monasteries, and temples.
We all think often about our families and the entire St. Olaf community back home, but, as expected, we are having the time of our lives exploring the world and getting to know the incredible people that surround us.
Peace and love from Egypt,
Globalites 2008
