Dear Global Community,
We are just beginning our third week on the Global Semester. We are a week in to our first long stay: Cairo, Egypt. We will spend the next month taking a class on Ancient Egyptian History at the American University in Cairo (AUC). As we dive into new cultures, we learn what it means to be an Egyptian and an American in modern downtown Cairo while acquiring a thorough background on the ancient history that has made Egypt what it is today.
Global 2008 experiences a much different Cairo than past Global Oles for two main reasons. First, we enter Cairo during Ramadan, which, for the first time in many years, continues throughout our stay. Secondly, the AUC has moved its campus out into the suburbs, leaving St. Olaf students at the deserted downtown campus, isolated from AUC students. Both occurrences, although not necessarily negative, add to the obvious culture shock experienced in leaving Western culture.
For the first time, Globalites have felt the effect of leaving the Western world. While most Globalites faced a language barrier in Geneva and Paris, the pure shock of getting off the bus in crowded, noisy, downtown Cairo dwarfed any cultural uncertainty felt in Europe. The mix of vastly foreign sights, sounds and smells, would be enough to make the average American tourist jump back on the bus, but momentary hesitation passed as we chose to explore the culture and embrace our personal decisions for choosing Global.
One of the biggest challenges faced in adjusting to Egyptian culture has been the difference in gender roles and, accompanying that, the loss of independence, particularly for female Globalites. Because of the stereotypes Egyptian culture holds of American women, due predominantly to media portrayals, female Globalites do not leave the Cosmopolitan Hotel (known affectionately as The Cosmo, our home for a month) without male accompaniment. Despite the loss of independence, Globalite women prefer to be accompanied by men because of the unwanted and stifling, although not necessarily threatening, looks and comments from some Egyptian men. Along with this comes the unnatural need to forsake "Minnesota nice" by avoiding eye contact with men or initiating conversation on the street.
As mentioned before, we are here during the month of Ramadan. During Ramadan, Muslims fast from sunrise to sunset as a symbol of their devotion to Allah. As a result, Egyptians structure the day around iftar , the breaking of the fast, which occurs around 6:15 pm. For most of the day, the vast majority of Egyptians conserve their energy indoors, not emerging again until evening, after iftar , creating a seemingly nocturnal populace. What this means for St. Olaf students is that most businesses, including restaurants and grocery stores, are closed during typical American meal times, especially lunch. In addition, when we do eat, we take special care to do so in private, respecting this cultural and religious sacrifice. Several Globalites have chosen to fast for the entire month of Ramadan, admirably foregoing breakfast and lunch in order to gain personal insights into the lives of Muslim Egyptians.
While some Globalites find the lack an adjustment, all would agree that Ramadan has served to shape and enhance our time in Egypt. One of the most enjoyable benefits is the traditional Ramadan food, such as fatta (bread and soup), udar (vegetables), and amareddin (an apricot drink). Another notable cultural observation is the mawa'id el Rahman , which are long communal tables set up in different neighborhoods for those who cannot afford food for iftar . This practice is a visible sign of the kareem or generosity associated with Ramadan, as we learned about in our Arabic lessons with the vibrant and memorable Professor Mona Kamel.
After our classes finish (usually two or three p.m.), many Globalites spend their afternoons napping, as many Egyptians do. Although this gives the illusion that St. Olaf students are wasting their time here, this practice enables them to enjoy the celebrations and vibrant nightlife unique to Ramadan in Egypt.
Another stark contrast that makes Global 2008 unique is the transition the AUC is currently making. Due to the pressures of a growing student population in Cairo, the AUC has built a beautiful $400 Million campus in a new suburb of Cairo, an hour commute outside the city. Just a few days before classes began, the University moved to the new campus, while Global remains at the old campus for logistical and cultural reasons. While the downtown AUC campus is mere blocks from our hotel in the heart of downtown Cairo, we have lost the connection to normal AUC peers experienced in the past. Remaining at the empty downtown campus has compromised our desired interactions with students our own age, leaving what we feel is a hole in our experience. To our disappointment, even our tour of the new campus last Friday was devoid of student activity. Because of this change, it is much more challenging to connect with younger Egyptians and learn about their perspective on life in Cairo from people our own age.
Despite our isolation from Egyptian students, Egyptian culture is evident on every street corner and we Globalites are soaking it in. As we learn to assimilate, the overall feeling of the group is one of excitement and anticipation. This Friday, September 19, we head to the Great Pyramids, and shortly after we will be taking longer excursions to Luxor in the south, and Alexandria on the Mediterranean. The culture and historical insights we've gained in Cairo so far will no doubt grow and come into new focus as we witness Egypt's ancient cultures and civilizations.
We hope all is well back on the hill.
Sending all our love,
Global Semester 2008
