(The southern route.)

Leave Northfield MN, October 9, 1997

Arrive Hurricane UT, October 13, 1997

Approximate mileage of the trip, 1800.

Day #1 – Thursday, October 9, 1997

Northfield, MN to Abilene, KS (~587 miles)

I left Northfield at about 8:30 A.M. It was a miserable day – cold (45 degrees), cloudy and very windy. It definitely looked like it could rain at any time. However, unlike most of my motorcycle trips, this was one where I was "scheduled" to leave regardless of the weather.

The traffic was light, the day cold. Fortunately, I had purchased an electric vest and electric gloves for the trip and I was "plugged in". In fact, I was very comfortable.

It was very windy. RV’s were having a lot of difficulty staying in their lanes. Fortunately, a heavy motorcycle is not seriously disadvantaged by wind – although it is not all that pleasant either when the wind is around 30 mph.

Generally, freeway traffic that was moving about 75 mph, was orderly and light.

I wanted to stop at Manhattan KS to visit but it was parents’ weekend and there was home football game so I went on to Abilene and stayed in a very ordinary Super 8 motel.

In summary, what can you say about a trip that takes I-35 south to Kansas City and then I-70 west towards Denver? Pretty boring.

In terms of weather, the day was actually two days in one. The morning was cold and ugly and the afternoon was sunny and lovely. But, the wind was strong and relentless.

Day #2 – Friday, October 10, 1997

Abilene, KS to Alamosa, CO (~572 miles)

A lovely morning in Abilene. I got a reasonably early start (about 8:00 A.M.). The day was sunny, warm but it was still very windy.

I am being pushed by the weather predictions. There is a cold front coming across the desert southwest and I need to get across the Wolf Creek pass in Colorado on Saturday at the latest or I will be held up for at least a day until the snow clears.

Interstate 70 from Abilene KS west is a very dull trip. The traffic was moving between 75 and 80 MPH and the traffic was generally light.

I left I-70 at Limon Colorado and headed to Colorado Springs on state highway 24. This is not a very scenic drive, although Colorado Springs is a lovely city.

Now, take I-25 down to Walsenburg to connect with famous Colorado highway 160. On this drive I was shadowed the whole way by a Colorado State Patrol car. I must confess that I held my speed right on the edge of being legal to make the "game" more fun. The traffic was heavy on this part of the trip and it was both very hot and very windy.

I connected with Colorado highway 160 at about 3:30 P.M. Colorado highway 160, crossing southern Colorado, is one of the most scenic drives in America, perhaps in the world. After a brief conversation with a Harley rider who had just come over the Wolf Creek Pass I decided to try for the Wolf Creek Pass if I could make it before dark.

First, you must cross the La Veta pass (9413 feet). The mountains were beautiful. The aspens are in full fall colors. The vista in the mountains was like a painting, a painting in rich greens and browns with vivid splashes golden yellow. No language can possibly describe the beauty.

I arrived in Alamosa Colorado about 4:45 P.M. and started toward the Wolf Creek Pass. However, about 10 miles from Alamosa it was clear that there was rain in the mountains ahead so I turned back. The Wolf Creek Pass was still about 80 miles distant, the sun was going down, and it was getting cold. So, snow was definitely a possibility.

After the aborted run at the Wolf Creek Pass, I returned and stayed in a crummy Super 8 motel in Alamosa. It was windy all night, very windy. The weather report that evening warned me that I must cross the mountains on Saturday or I would not get across for a couple more days. So, early to bed in the hope of getting an early start on Saturday.

Day #3, Saturday, October 11, 1997

Alamosa, CO to Monticello, UT (~257 miles)

This day in Alamosa, the dawn was clear and cool (50 degrees). It was still very windy.

I headed for the Wolf Creek Pass (10,800 feet), something like 80 miles to the west. The mountains were so beautiful that words are simply not adequate to describe them.

Apparently there had been a lot of rain and snow in the mountains as water was running everywhere. Wolf Creek was truly a raging torrent.

The traffic was light. At the summit of the Wolf Creek Pass, there clearly had been quite a lot of snow but the roads were clear and dry even though there was a substantial amount of snow on the shoulders. And, it was cool above about 9000 feet. Again, thank heavens for the electric clothing. I was actually very comfortable. Without doubt, one of the most beautiful rides I have ever taken. I am elated that I have finally "discovered" late fall riding.

After the mountain pass, I continued on highway 160 through Pagosa Springs, Bayfield and Durango. The only hint of a problem to come was that the clouds were building ominously in the west.

From highway 160, I connected to highway 666 in Cortez CO and proceeded north, going through small and picturesque towns with names like "Yellow Jacket", "Pleasant View", and "Dove Creek".

The clouds continued to build to the north and west. And, as I climbed to the high Utah plains, it got colder and the wind was definitely picking up.

About two miles outside of Monticello, UT (elevation about 7000 feet) the temperature was about 50 and it started to rain really hard (as opposed to the drizzle I had been riding through for the past 10 or so miles).

At about 1:30 P.M. I pulled into Monticello, UT. The rain was simply too uncomfortable to continue.

On the southern edge of Monticello UT (population of about 1000) there are two motels. One major chain motel and the other a "Ma and Pa" motel called the "Triangle H". Naturally, being one that hates motels in general and the sameness of big chain motels in particular I selected the Triangle H.

The Triangle H motel was operated by a lovely young couple. Not only was the motel adequate but they let me put my motorcycle in a heated garage and even provided me with some old towels to dry it off. It is random acts of real kindness like this that restores your faith in human nature. And, it is things like this that make me want to live in Utah. Had this been New York, the motel operators would have likely tried to steal my motorcycle rather than be concerned that it be covered and cleaned.

Finally, supper in a little diner the likes of which were common 50 years ago. Not to mention the prices, which were unbelievably low. I had a very nice meal for less than $5.

Returning to the motel after supper, it was snowing gently and the wind was blustery and very cold. Clearly, in the mountains north of the town, it was snowing very hard and accumulating quite a lot of snow.

 

Day #4, Sunday, October 12, 1997

Monticello, UT (0 miles)

Morning in Monticello, UT and it was COLD (15 degrees) and there were about 2 inches of fresh snow. It was cloudy, windy and generally NOT the sort of a day that would be good for motorcycle riding. I decided on a quiet day in Monticello reading and watching the football and baseball games.

I had a fantastic breakfast in a restaurant across the street from the motel. Bacon, eggs, hash browns, toast and coffee for $4.95. Is that amazing or what?

On the way back from breakfast I stopped in the motel office to tell my host and hostess that I would be there for another day. These two young people (and their lively and cheerful children) were simply wonderful

A quiet day of reading and watching football (Dolphins and Jets, Packers and Bears) and baseball (American League playoff) on TV. I don’t think I would like to live in Monticello, UT, but as a place to spend a quiet and restful day it can be strongly recommended.

During the course of the day, the temperature struggled reluctantly up to about 28 degrees and most of the snow simply sublimed away.

Supper was a delight. A walking tour of Monticello earlier in the day revealed two restaurants and a rather dubious looking Pizza place available close to my motel. The two restaurants were both within about 200 yards of the motel. For supper I selected the more "upscale" of the two restaurants (here, your overalls should be clean!) and had a wonderful prime rib dinner for $9.95. Naturally, this included a salad bar and dessert, which consisted of either (or both) fantastic homemade pie and cake.

By evening the sky had cleared and the weather forecast for Monday promised clear but cold weather.

Day #5, Monday, October 13, 1997

Monticello, UT to Hurricane, UT (~402 miles)

A simply beautiful day in Monticello, UT. The sky is crystal clear, the snow is all gone (at least at the lower elevations) and the wind is calm. However, it is a bit cool (17 degrees). It is time to move on!

After a wonderful breakfast at the restaurant across the street (where I am now on a first name basis with the waitress) I made ready to leave. To do that, I put on almost all the cold weather gear that I had along. My motorcycle was producing voluminous exhaust plums as it warmed up. I then waited until about 9:30 A.M. when the temperature was a balmy 20 degrees, before I started out.

The day was truly magnificent! And, even though it was cold I was perfectly comfortable (the Widder electric vest and gloves are truly wonderful).

On to Blanding, UT and then south of Blanding to highway 95, a scenic and little-traveled highway that runs from Utah highway 191 to Utah highway 24 at Hanksville. The only stop along this some 130 miles of excellent road is at "Fry Canyon" where I stopped for gas and coffee. Clearly, if you are on a bike and the Fry Canyon stop is closed you best be certain you have plenty of gas before you head out on this road. There was NO other traffic.

Highway 95 deserves some special comments. The vistas are sweeping and magnificent. The golden aspen groves highlight a rugged desert terrain with rock cliffs and canyons of amazing depth. This is definitely a "must see" trip.

Utah highway 95 ends at Hanksville UT where you connect with Utah highway 42. The drive along highway 42 to the intersection with highway 12 is lovely and crosses some fairly impressive mountains. This road also crosses Capital Reef National Park. There are truly some spectacular views to be enjoyed here.

After a brief lunch at the Subway at the intersection of highway 42 with highway 12, I took highway 12 south. This highway crosses some great mountains and eventually crosses Bryce Canyon National Park. There is so much beauty here that there is no way to describe it with only words.

One section of highway 12 deserves special mention. This section of road goes down a ridge at the top of a mountain. At one point in this ridge road there is a stretch where there is ONLY road, almost no shoulders, and a sheer drop off on both sides. I am sure the view is spectacular but I couldn’t look (can you say vertigo? – and that is not a problem that I normally have). Even though it was cold on this stretch of road, I was sweating profusely when I finally got to a place where there was something beside the road I could see

Shortly after highway 12 passes through Bryce Canyon National Park it connects with Utah highway 89. Before the completion of I-15, this highway was the principal north - south route in Utah. It has a lot of nostalgic touches like old Route 66: deserted gas stations and closed motels abound. However, it is a very scenic highway, well worth the trip.

Highway 89 intersects Utah highway 9 at Mt. Carmel Junction (the Mormons are really into Biblical names). Highway 9 crosses Zion National Park and simply must be one of the most scenic highways in the WORLD. To say that this drive is spectacular would not do it justice. It must be seen to be appreciated.

Finally, emerging from Zion National Park, highway 9 takes you through Springdale, Rockville, Virgin, La Verkin and finally Hurricane. This section of highway 9 is very scenic as it sweeps down into the Hurricane valley.

At 6:00 P.M. local time I checked into my favorite Super 8 motel in Hurricane to ready myself for dealing with a multitude of mundane things like buying appliances, hooking up services, and the like.

A wonderful trip!  I shall leave my motorcyle here in my new house and fly back to Minnesota.

Note Added

Because I was so diligent on Tuesday (10/14/97) I had time to play on Wednesday. I left Hurricane about 10:00 A.M. and rode to St. George (about 20 miles). From St. George I took Utah highway 18 north. I stopped at the Mountain Meadow Massacre monument. This is a pretty "high impact" sort of place. In this serene mountain meadow, Indians and Mormon Militia murdered essentially all the people on a wagon train. It is hard to see it and not be profoundly impressed in some way.

From there I went to Utah highway 56 and then to Cedar City. In Cedar City I connected with Utah highway 14 and crossed the mountains. This is an absolutely MOST DO drive. At the top of the mountains, there are many vast mountain meadows that are accented by spectacular black lava fields.