It was a lovely Sunday in Hurricane on November 16, 1997. A bit cool (55), but crystal clear with a calm wind.

It was much too nice to stay inside, so about 1:00 PM I decided to cruise down and check out the Pipestone National Monument (on my bike of course). I never did bother to check it out on the net so it was really a complete surprise - but I get ahead of myself.

The trip from Hurricane UT to the Pipestone National Monument in Northern Arizona is quite scenic. State highway 59 climbs quickly out of the Hurricane Valley giving a fantastic panoramic view of the valley floor. I regret that I forgot my camera (maybe I will go back later and get some pictures). The first ten miles of the trip are about as good as it gets in terms of scenery. A lovely mountain road, cliffs with magnificent striations of multi-color rock formations and a wide variety of mountain vegetation. Then, the road settles down in the bottom of a high and wide mountain valley and proceeds towards Hildale UT and its sister city, Colorado City AZ, allegedly the polygamy capital of the nation. Neither town is on the road but both are very close to it. On the way down I passed by both Hildale and Colorado City and went directly to Pipe Springs National Monument, about 20 miles on further south and east. This is big ranch country, a fact that takes on more significance when one notes the nature of Pipestone National Monument.

What about the Pipestone National Monument?

It is on an Indian reservation and this reservation, like most of the Indian reservations that I have seen, is on land so poor that nothing but casinos would have much chance of growing (and there is a Pipestone Casino). The National Monument itself is actually a very nicely restored cattle ranch run by the U.S. Park Service. It presents quite a complete picture of what life must have been like when you were "home on the range" in the last century. They had a very well organized guided tour and the ranch house was such that I expected to see Ben and Hoss come out of the back room (well, it was a bit less elegant than the Ponderosa, I suppose). This place is worth seeing but I would be reluctant to put it on your "absolutely must see" list.

On the way back I drove into Colorado City. First, some facts and observations:

(1) Colorado City was incorporated in 1984!

(2) The town is at an elevation of 5000 feet.

(3) The town is in a lovely setting at the bottom of a magnificent red rock cliff.

(4) The town itself is the pits.

I am astounded that this town is apparently of such recent vintage, incorporated in 1984. Clearly, judging from its long-standing reputation and the old and run-down housing and commercial buildings, it has been there for a great deal longer than than the year 1984 would suggest.  

[Note Added: Clearly, I am guilty of sloppy scholarship here.]  The reason that Colorado City appears to be much older than implied by the 1984 date on the sign is simply that it is much older.  Colorado City, AZ, was originally incorporated as Short Creek, AZ.  However, in the  50's a poorly planned and poorly executed "crack down" on polygamy in the towns of Short Creek, AZ and Hildale, UT left the towns decimated, and created a public relations nightmare for authorities.  In the aftermath of this abortive raid, Short Creek was renamed Colorado City.  It should be noted that this historic crack down on polygamy did not change the nature of either Hildale or Colorado City.    Make no mistake about it, Colorado City and its neighboring city, Hildale, UT, are fundamentally polygamist communities.  Why, you ask, if polygamy is illegal does it continue to exist and even flourish in Southwest?  That is a complex question, and I refer you to the following:

http://www.ishipress.com/utah-pol.htm/
http://www.polygamy.org/

Regards point (4) above, this is the archetypal dusty little Mormon desert town complete with sheep and horses in the front yards, and vast numbers of little kids everywhere.

Now, to answer what I presume is your most burning question, did I actually see any "Polygs"? Well, I answer I really don’t know. I guess they do not wear bibs with a scarlet "P" emblazoned thereon. However, as I cruised around the town I saw several very large houses with more kids playing in their yards than would be believable under usual societal constraints. One particular house had more than 11 kids playing in a dusty yard (I got to 11 counting before I almost hit a parked car and had to look at the road again).  By the way, the folks in Colorado City and Hildale do not like people cruising around their towns and ogling them, and I can't say that I blame them.  While I do not approve or condone their choice of lifestyle, neither do I condemn it, nor do I think they should be subjected to the intrusion of the mindlessly curious.

Finally, back to Hurricane after a lovely afternoon and a lovely ride.